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september journey

  • September journey part 10: Day of arrest continues

    Staying on the move in Israel and the Palestinian Territories through a month of trial. Second phase in Saturday's mayham. Start here if you wish to see how we got there. There's a great place in Jerusalem for traditional Kurdish Kubbeh soup. It's called "Between Gaza and Berlin," a name derived from its location. The tiny eatery sits on the meeting of old Gaza road and Rabbi Berlin Street. That name always seems to me like the coordinates of the Israeli state of being: We came from Berlin, we live near Gaza. We were killed in Berlin, we kill in…

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  • September journey part 9: Day of arrest begins

    Staying on the move in Israel and the Palestinian Territories through a month of trial. And today: getting in trouble, here's how to start working on it. With your kind permission, I would like to start today's post with two photos that were not taken on today's trip. The first (which I didn't even take myself) is a photo of a television newscaster. The second is a photo of nobody. A few of you may recall the very ending of part 8 in this series. It was Thursday night and I was sitting at Iliya's bar and sauna in Ashdod,…

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  • September journey part 8: It makes no sense

    Staying on the move in Israel and the Palestinian Territories through a month of trial. Who'd have thought I'd get shot in my mother's hometown? I can venture a bit farther afield today, thanks to my truly beloved readers. So far my emergency fundraiser, following the disastrous effect a Turkish-Israeli diplomatic freeze caused to this journey's budget, accumulated nearly $300 US. This is very moving for me. I never before asked for donations for anything and didn't realize people out there were this appreciative of my work. $300 is not a huge budget for a trip like this, so I…

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  • September journey part 7: Enter violence

    Staying on the move in Israel and the Palestinian Territories through a month of trial. And today: from green pastures to realms of sincere wrath. I woke up this morning feeling somewhat refreshed. Several good souls donated to this project last night, helping save the journey from the unexpected political calamity that dried up its budget. The freezing of diplomatic relations with Turkey caused three week's worth of Turkey-related travel writing to go to waste. The various travel magazines canned the articles. The money on which I was counting for this project will never arrive. Thanks to my truly beloved…

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  • First September journey interlude: A serious obstacle

    Staying on the road in Israel and the Palestinian territories during a month of trial, and today: political developments being the journey to a screeching halt. A week into September, the journey faces a peril. My idea was to describe the developments of a potentially dramatic month by way of travel writing. The month indeed is turning out to be dramatic, and now the project risks falling victim to one of these developments. Story is - I spent the majority of July in Turkey composing travel articles for Israeli magazines. Now, since the Israeli ambassador is being sent back and…

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  • September journey part 6: Our reasons for living

    Staying on the move in Israel and the Palestinian Territories through a month of trial. And today: From grandma's house to the Tulkarem PLO headquarters. Like a proper Little Red Riding hood, I set off this morning to visit my grandmother. She lives in a retirement home in the city of Kfar Saba. About twenty kilometers north east of Tel-Aviv. Kfar Saba is situated immediately on the Israel side of the Green line. so I shouldn't be surprised that the lady sitting next to me on the bus over turns out to be a settler, but I am. She doesn't…

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  • September journey part 5: Diameter of a bubble

    Staying on the move in Israel and the Palestinian Territories through a month of trial. And today: walking the miracle mile. Last night was too good for me to leave Tel-Aviv just yet. The city that hosted the biggest demonstration in this country's history not only deserves another day, it begs to be experienced during its return to routine. So many questions open up here this morning: Will the tents remain? Will the spirit live on? Will Dafni leef and Itzik Shmuli, conflicted leaders of the struggle, wake up hung-over in each other's arms? and most importantly: what will happen…

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  • September journey part 4: Vive les revolutions!

    Staying on the move in Israel and the Palestinian Territories through a month of trial. And today: enjoying Tel-Aviv and Israel's biggest demonstration ever with a guest from outer space. A dear friend of mine is visiting Tel-Aviv. Her name and job will have to remain a secret, and the most I can show of her is her hand in the photo below. This is because she is a western expatriate living in Syria. Damascus Rose came here to relax a bit. Syria has become no less than a slaughterhouse over the past few months. This place, by comparison, is…

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  • September journey part 3: Invisible cities

    Staying on the move in Israel and the Palestinian Territories through a month of trial. Second excursion: to the old neighborhood and beyond, far beyond. I grew up on a settlement, not one inhabited by fierce ideologists, not even one that is recognized as a settlement by the Israeli people or their government, but a settlement nonetheless. "French Hill" was built after 1967 in East Jerusalem. It is a "citadel" settlement, overlooking the Palestinians from a high vantage point. Guess who was assigned to the watchman's position? Yours truly, at ten years of age. From the window of my childhood…

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  • September journey part 2: What are the chances?

    Staying on the move in Israel and the Palestinian Territories through a month of trial. First excursion: Beit Shean and Tel Al-Baida. First experience: Uncertainty. . . Tel Aviv has become such a carnival of protest this summer, that leaving it can be a bit of an emotional zig-zag. On the sherut, or minivan bus, to the city of Afula, I experience my first downwards zig, on learning that the rest of the country may not be quite as much of a rebellious paradise. . Twenty-two year-old Palestinian-Israeli Amjad sits next to me. By the time we reach his town…

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  • September journey part 1: Why I'm heading off

    Staying on the move in Israel and the Palestinian Territories through a month of trial. Here's an attempt at explaining why this is a good idea. It is now five minutes past midnight on September 1st, 2011. We are five minutes into the month that in our media and public discourse has become synonymous with turbulence, and everything is still fine. Not a single one of the four top headlines in the Hebrew edition of Haaretz even deals with the Israeli-Palestinian issue. The top one has to do with striking medical interns, then comes a disenchanted Nepalese caretaker who's has…

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